Showing posts with label Hartjesdag. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hartjesdag. Show all posts

Tuesday, 18 August 2026

Vanaf vandaag gaan wij weer dansen *

What a fantastic trip we had to our beloved Amsterdam! And, for a change, there were five of us, as the usual "Tarts on Tour" (Me, Madam Arcati, Baby Steve and Houseboy Alex) we were joined by John-John - which made it all the more fun, as we were able to introduce him to things that he didn't see when he was there last [which was for my 50th birthday - gulp - thirteen years ago!]...

Five days of people-watching by day (at Trinity Cafe opposite our hotel on Oudezijds Voorburgwal, or St James Gate on Rembrandtplein, or the bar formerly known as the much-missed Amstel Taveerne, now The Mill), drinking, eating FEBO and at Eetsalon Van Dobben, wandering the grachten, more drinking, and generally enjoying ourselves - bliss.

We paid tribute to my favourite building in Amsterdam, the Tuschinski Theatre:


[click any pic to embiggen]

We "went true Dutch" at traditional bars such as De Haven van Texel, with its beautiful canal-side view, and the historic bruine kroegen ("brown café") Café Hoppe on the wonderfully-named Spui [the square at the end of the shopping street Kalverstraat; we went there for a welcome beer after trekking round loads of stores including C&A (a clothing shop that was beloved in the UK until it closed all its branches in 2000), and coming away with nothing]. We even spent an afternoon at Amsterdam's botanical garden Hortus Botanicus - with its fascinating butterfly house:

Our gorgeous student boys were back, getting up to their usual hi-jinks [often with their tops off, but we have no photo evidence of that, unfortunately] for their equivalent of "Freshers' Week":

We [obviously!] spent a few nights in some of our fave gay bars, including The Queen's Head [which, we discovered, really only comes into its own on weekends nowadays], the sleazy-and-fab Spijker Bar, and the ever-friendly and jolly Café Montmartre [now in another new location, as part of the busy "gay village" in Reguliersdwarsstraat, and renamed "Montmartre XL"].

Our very favourite of all is - of course - the oldest gay bar in Amsterdam [and possibly the world] Cafe 't Mandje, and its raucous traditional Sunday lunchtime Dutch sing-alongs:

On our very last day, before catching our plane, it was off to the Zeedijk again for the utterly joyous Hartjesdag festival, with its street party, complete with a free breakfast on trestle tables the length of the street, more traditional sing-alongs, followed by the traditional men-dressed-as-women and women-dressed-as-men parade! We love it:

Only one thing marred the celebratory mood, however. Our lovely hosts Karl and Josef at Hotel Anco - where we have stayed every year for at least a decade - are retiring, have put the business up for sale and have a new apartment just around the corner on De Wallen! How very, very sad. They've been like family to us. We have put our reservation in for next year just in case, but Karl said he will let us know if the situation changes [if it is no longer a hotel by then, for instance].

Now... what did we miss while we were away?


Our "colander obscura" captured dozens of little crescents, as the moon obscured the sun

But... did I bring anything back for your delectation, dear reader?

Of course - one of the Netherlands' most popular singers, whose songs were being played all over the place while we were there:

Is it good to be back?

NO!

[Vanaf vandaag gaan wij weer dansen = "From today we will dance again"; part of the lyrics of one of Mr Bronkhorst's songs in that medley, Kom allemaal maar in mijn armen]


UPDATE 6.05pm, Wednesday 19th August

I posted this at about 8pm yesterday, and it still hasn't shown up in the Blogger Reading List!

I tell you one thing I haven't missed, and that's the bastard Google gnomes and their broken systems.

Wednesday, 18 August 2010

Aan De Amsterdamse Grachten



We had a fantastic time in Amsterdam on the weekend!

This is not just any old city, you know! It is a place I have paid due homage to for twenty years, and for very good reason,. The most relaxing and chilled-out place on the planet (with or withouth the herbals - which I don't do any more, not wanting to waste an entire three night stay!), this visit paid us back in spades...

We may have missed Amsterdam Pride (which was apparently a complete washout, weather-wise), but we managed to catch the Hartjesdag festival in the Zeedijk, the oldest area of the city. "Hearts Day" is an annual restoration of an ancient carnival from the early days of Dutch independence, where men dressed as women and women dressed as men for some reason lost in the mists of time. Banned under the Nazis needless to say, it was revived a few years back and is now fully celebrated with style by the local gay scene...



We had bearded nuns and a whole gamut of demi-drag-clad tall people (Amsterdam being the home of giants, the sight of fully-grown blokes in heels, big wigs and moustaches is quite scary), and, best of all - opera singers regaling the audience from upstairs pub windows! A remarkable and unforgettable experience, indeed.


On the Sunday we found ourselves down the Zeedijk again, but this time to sample the delights of Europe's oldest gay bar, Cafe 't Mandje (read my blog last year for a potted history of this wonderful place). Imagine our delight to have found ourselves in the middle of a genuine, old-fashioned Amsterdam sing-a-long afternoon (complete with songbooks - pointless really, as they are mostly in Dutch).



But my word, did we sing!


We rounded off the most perfect Sunday in our favourite gay bar Cafe Rouge, with its wall-to-wall tacky music policy. In all it was so much fun, and over all too soon! We ate all Dutch food, spent lots of time absorbing the atmosphere of the grachten (canals) - and we only had two thunderstorms, the rest of the time being sunny and warm.


I can't wait to get back again (shame to wait a year for it!).